Cycling in Italy

After waking up to a sprinkler next to my tent at 6am, I ended up doing 160k to reach my friend's place in Bolzano, arriving around 8pm. That's the most Ive ever cycled in a day, in the Alps no less. Met a bunch of people, so many things happened. I don't know if I'll ever see so much in one day again. So epic.

This lake, I later learned, is what is providing water for much of Italy's agriculture sector in norther Italy right now, an area that has been facing significant drought

the bending valley was full of mostly apple farms

most people are cycling on Ebikes like these.

arriving this look out over Mareno was marvelous

when I got some food and finally found somewhere to it I had become dizzy with hunger

I was a little beat up after 160 Ks. Even though it was a net down hill, the consistent head wind negated any energy savings... And I later learned my breaks were rubbing for a couple of days without realizing.😅

On my day off the bike my friends and I went for a hike into the mountains.

We took gondolas to get up for a hike.

looking back on Bolzano

and up towards the mountain peaks

some fantastic views up there.

the gondolas make the mountains so accessible for fantastic hiking 

Turns out Bolzano is where gondolas were first used in the world. And they do have a great network of them. Only other place I've seen so many is in Antioquia in Colombia. 

I was able compile this map of my route so far, up to Bolzano, about 5000ks in.. 

The headwind I had more or less since arriving Italy continued in full force as I continued south east. What should not have been so difficult a day cycling to Lake Garda ended up beating me up. The valley was sweltering in full sun and the headwind slowed me way down - extending my exposure. Fortunately there were plenty of public water spigots to take from along the way.

I popped into Trento for a look around, a stop in an Aldi for juice and AC. Where I saw this public Ebike charger-which I've never seen before. 

Towards the end of the day I had sun fatigue and then the hills started. The last of which afforded this view looking down at Lake Garda 

They wanted $35 to camp in this touristy spot so I said screw that and set off back to a wild camping option I had seen earlier... Back up a big hill ugh! 😂... Fortunately I found a hidden, very old looking and empty park that was perfect for me. 

Cycling south along the lake the head wind continued. 

But the views of the steep mountain sides along the lake were fantastic 

I realized my disc breaks were badly rubbing, probably for the past couple of days. Unable to fix it myself I found a bike shop. 

I ended the day in Verona. 

Where I found a nice spot at a park to watch the sunset 

And some action in the night sky 

I again wild camped.... This time with far less success.... 🙄

The next morning I realized that my breaks were still rubbing and I ended up going to 3 shops before someone could help me... Had to replace my pads again and reset the pistons again...? Not sure what might be going on here... Ugh those long days in the hot sun and headwind made harder! 

Finally seeing some of Italian drought I've r read about 

One of the most difficult things about traveling by bicycle?..... Packing groceries into my bags 😆😅. I eat a lot and have to transport it all to hopefully some pleasent spot to eat it....

During the time it took me to figure out that small challenge (by putting some groceries in the extra slack of the orange backpack liner I use to carry my camping gear)... Two different older Italian guys, who also pulled up by bicycle to shop, asked where I was coming from. And going. When I told them they each reacted in a cheering Bravo! It was fun to witness 😄... And so I showed them my odometer, which has just crossed the 5,000km mark! 🤘

Much of this day was on a straight, flat, enclosed bike path... So not much to speak of/show 

I wild camped next to nice lake at the foot of the Dolemites. The swimming around here is lovely. 

I was excited to get back into some mountains, so after a nice breakfast I headed north, 

quickly reaching a solid 30 minute climb 

That landed me at this view around 10am. What a great way to start a day 😀

I noticed a lot of other cyclists around here, which tells me the area is good for cycling and that cars will be more familiar with cyclists, so safer. 

And there were loads of bike paths to avoid traffic altogether 

I had lunch at Langarone. Above my spread of food on the wall there you can see a big slit in the mountain. Look closer and you can see a dam at the top of the slit. That's where I'm headed. 

Climbing up towards the dam I arrived this tunnel cut out of the side of the cliff. Stop lights on either side means one way traffic and I've got to hurry before oncoming cars start 

But I snuck out one of the openings to snap a view of the dam. A view cars driving through can't see 

Here now looking back down at the dam. 

And now deep into the Dolemites 

Fantastic, tall valleys 

Here there is definitely signs of less water than normal - these rivers completely dry

But lower down, lake Barcis, controlled by a dam, was still full of beautiful Alpine water. Great swimming! 

Right near where I camped 

I happened upon a group of cycling Americans living in Maniago, Italy with the US military and out for a Saturday bike ride. I met them over coffee and gave something to chew on 😉

My last day in Italy had me crossing into Slovenia over the mountains, with another sizeable climb.