Cycling in Spain

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/39729174

I had my first crisis of confidence in google maps approaching the Spanish border. I found myself on unstable rocky roads with no one else around. I wonder how gmaps prioritizes road quality, traffic level, route efficiency, and all the rest.... Because I was not happy with its decision to put me out here.

It had been 10 days in a row that I was on the move, so I took my first rest day in Salamanca. What a beautiful city. 

My first dose of the car free plazas and pedestrian ways so uniquely European. How it is that we don't also prioritize such space in America is beyond me. Newbury street in Boston, for example, is a prime example of an area that could easily be made car free to everyone's benefit. 

Human life and culture is allowed to happen where cars aren't a threat. 

It is really starting to get hot and exposed here in central Spain. And it seems to me they don't eat much beyond the tapas found at the bar display.

Really missing the fruit/juice/popsicle/ice-cream culture of Mexico/Colombia. 

Avila 

Segovia is another beautiful, old city. Castles, cathedrals, and the acuaduct were all very impressive.  

But unable to find affordable accommodation I left in the late afternoon to camp in the outskirts of town. 

A night wind storm forced me to peg down my tent in the middle of the but challenged my tent's construction. A constant noise that is so disconcerting I could not sleep until it quieted down late in the morning 😭😴

In search of some shade for a rest I detoured off the road and ended up founding this area of family wine caves and bodegas. Where local families store their wine to age and have a family gathering space in the cave like bodegas. I ended up chatting with one such family who offered a refreshing glass of cool red wine and a little tour of their space. 

El cotarro

https://maps.app.goo.gl/G1gruefMyjoGYH978

In trying to reach Burgos the next day, Google maps again routed me only through farm roads-bumpy, rocky, unstable ways. Something I really don't care to do on my fully loaded bike-too risky, stressful, and slow. The only other way I could find was to to go on the highway 😟.... So I was on the highway for a while, not pleasant but direct, fast, and safe.. When the cops pulled me over and told me to get off at the next exit. So I did and it put me on shitty 'roads'.... I was trying to avoid the height of the days heat but now I was not able to. I had left at 815am and didn't arrive until after 6....uff it was a tough day. 

So I took a rest day in Burgos. Pleasant little city.

I found a campsite near a river about halfway to Bilbao/the coast, so seemed as good a spot as any to target for the day. Turns out my aim landed me on a great rails to trails bike/walking path almost the entire 70ks. It was wonderful. I was able maintain about 20m/30k per hour among calm pastures and along mountain sides. 

When I arrived the campsite it was a bit disappointing and the lady who worked there told me there was a more interesting spot about 12ks away. So I decided to continue on to Frías. 

Where there was access to swim in the river by the old bridge.  

After a visit up the hill to town for a view 

I went back to the bridge swimming area and camped out. 

The next day I cycled along mountain ridges and into Basque Country. So long being able to speak the local language 😭😭

Bilbao is a cool city. Like much of Spain/Europe, it has a great outdoor life/culture. So fantastic to have water fountains everywhere when it's hot! 

I reached the north coast at a little Beach town called Deba 

And then cycled up into the nearby mountains towards a campground I found 

That had a pool with a view 

When I cycled to San Sebastián the next day on Saturday in Basque country, the cycling culture was very apparent as there must have seen over a thousand people cycling along the coast, 98% men. 

Although quite expensive, San Sebastián is also a pretty cool city, on the beach. 

I met up with one of my best friend's good friend from growing up. We had a nice time hanging out. And I met his girlfriend as well. The only Spanish girl I spoke with in my 2 weeks in Spain :/