Hudson Doyle's travel blog: Cycling in El Salvador

I crossed into El Salvador and stayed in a dirty highway town just over the border, Cara Sucia. Further dirtied by a guy fumigating the market with a leaf blower of smoke, gross.

From there it was a casual day in rural el Salvador towards the coastline.

They use firewood to cook in these parts, and often transport it thus

I had arranged a Warmshowers stay in La Perla, a small fishing village on the coast. The kind of place I would never have stayed normally, as there really is no where for travelers to stay. Arriving to town I was famished and found the only restaurant in town. I sat down to what they had to eat, chicken, and a beer. Made friendly with a drunk fellow nearby who came to sit next to me. Turns out he was really drunk, at 1pm, with a crate of beers by his table. While a little annoying, he ended up paying for my lunch.

I found my way to "Valerie's place" and a kid, on his way out, told me she was away in Nicaragua but if she said I could stay no problem and showed me to the 'ranch'.... Wow, I feel lucky to have scored this one.

around the corner was the town store.

I met some kids returning from surfing. I asked them how they got mangoes out of the tree. So they showed me. One went up. Climbed all the way to the top, where a bamboo stick lay in wait and he knocked some down.

Had to catch them before they hit the ground and got crushed. Very sweet and tasty of mature. But they ate them regardless, like apples. So I did too.

It was only 25ks to el Tunco, a spot I was recommended by a guy I met in Antigua. On the way this guy flew by me transporting firewood down the hill. Maybe he was inspired by the winter Olympics in South Korea? :P

El Tunco

Another surf spot that has turned into a touristy town. These are nice to come across, as they assure good food and people to meet. And, fortunately, I found a super chill place with a pool that fell within my daily budget at $15/night

I decided to go to the capital city, San Salvador, to buy a couple things. I stopped in la Libertad for breakfast and got to talking with a fellow who worked at a toure guide school across the street. He asked me if he could show me the school so I said sure. Turns out he brings me in front of an ongoing class with like 25 students and asks me to tell them about my trip. Chatted with them for about 15 minutes. Was fun.

San Salvador

It was a 3000ft climb up to San Salvador. Took me about 1:30 and I only stopped once. I've certainly gotten more accustomed to long climbs by this point

I ended up meeting a girl who took me up valcano San salvador, to an outdoor food market, up to devil's door lookout, and to watch a local soccer game.

Usulutan
I had my sights on a big day but ended up in the hospital instead, my first visit to a hospital for myself ever. It wasnt any hotter or sunnier than any other day, full sun into the 90s,´but less than half way into the ride I started to feel off. I suspected the food I had eaten at my hotel but couldn't be sure. I wasn't deep into the day that my legs started cramping up and maybe 2/3 into the 60 mile day when my legs become riddled with painful cramps, making it difficult to ride. I was feeling nausea and dizzy and had to dismount every 10-15 minutes to walk out the cramps. When I reached the city of Usulutan I couldn't ride anymore and walked my bike through the city. I was in total survival mode to make it to a hotel.

When I finally arrived, my survival mode abated and I got really sick. I could hardly walk, leg cramps and dizziness prevented me from jumping in the pool or even take a shower. Laying in bed I eventually called the front desk for a doctor. He came and diagnosed dehydration and sun stroke. Immediately after he left I started vomiting. Thereafter I was unable to hold anything down, a symptom of the dehydration I think. I ended up vomiting 5-6 times. I felt terrible while I waited at the hospital for 1.5 hours, worse for throwing up on the waiting room floor around everyone. When I could finally lie down on a bed and receive IV fluids I started to feel better.

7 liters of IV fluids and 36 hours in the hospital was enough. As soon as I got word my kidney function had normalized I was out of there. I went back to my hotel mess and got myself together. I contemplated for a few minutes the recommendation of my facebook friends to rest for a while. But I couldn't just hang out in a gross city like that, idle at a hotel. I had to keep moving, it's just who I am.

I had a sensational day cycling amidst volcanoes with a solid 1500' climb to reach a Warmshowers host. This host was well experienced, hosting folks very often in the popular cycling season - I didn't even know there was one but apparently I was in it.

Cattle slalom

I took a day off here. He let me take his motorcycle out for the day. My first time ever riding one. Figuring out how to shift gears to a few minutes.